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The Daily Insight

Can you lead belay with an ATC?

Author

Matthew Wilson

Updated on March 01, 2026

Starts here5:26Climb Safe: How to belay with the ATC – YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clip47 second suggested clipThe ATC is a dynamic belay. Device the braking effect of ATC devices is based on the double bendMoreThe ATC is a dynamic belay. Device the braking effect of ATC devices is based on the double bend principle wherein. Their break force is caused by the break end at the break side rope.

What is ATC in climbing?

When it comes to rock climbing and top rope, an Air Traffic Controller (ATC) is one of the most important pieces of rock climbing gadget and device. It is what you use to belay to keep your climber safe when they’re high on the wall whether indoors or free climbing in the great outdoors.

Can you rappel with an ATC?

The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP.

How do you lead a belay with a ATC pilot?

Starts here4:19Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device – FULL DETAILS – YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clip30 second suggested clipBut. That’s not the way to do it that’s not the point of it the idea is for nice smooth controlMoreBut. That’s not the way to do it that’s not the point of it the idea is for nice smooth control lowering. Hand on the brake rope. And you just rotate it.

Do you need a grigri to lead climb?

A GRIGRI is a great choice for belaying a lead climber, but the technique is slightly more complicated than belaying with a more traditional tubular-style device like an ATC. In order to pay out slack, you need to override the cam while still holding onto the brake strand.

How do you lead climb with a grigri?

Starts here10:43How to belay the leader with a GRIGRI – Belaying techniques – YouTubeYouTube

What does ATC device stand for?

Air Traffic Controller
An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device.

Why does an ATC have two slots?

Some devices are asymmetric and the two holes provide different friction. Others are shaped with an up and down orientation, so two holes are provided to make it easy for left/right handed people. Some lead climbs are better tackled with two lines of anchors. The two holes make it easy to belay a two-rope climb.

Can you rappel with a GRIGRI?

With a GRIGRI, it is not possible to rappel on the two strands coming out of the anchor. So one must rappel on a single strand, blocked at the rappel ring by a knot attached to a locking carabiner. Rappel only on the strand opposite the knot block; the other strand is used only for retrieving the rope.

How do I rappel with ATC belay device?

Starts here4:30Rappelling with a Guide ATC and VT Prusik Backup – YouTubeYouTube

Is ATC pilot assisted braking?

The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. With an easy rope payout, the ATC Pilot makes single-pitch projecting burns less tiring for the belayer and more secure for the climber.

What is an ATC in rock climbing?

The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond.

What is lead climbing and how do I start?

Lead climbing is a type of rock climbing that can be done in a gym and outside. It is a good idea – and is required in most gyms – to learn how to climb and belay on top-rope before learning how to lead. After all, you wouldn’t fly a commercial jet until you’ve learned how to pilot a small two-seater plane.

How do you use a carabiner for lead climbing?

In outdoor lead climbing, one carabiner is clipped to the hanger, while the other carabiner dangles down, to be clipped into with the climber’s rope. When getting ready to climb a route outside, the climber must clip quickdraws to the gear loops on their harness.

How to use ATC device for abseiling with a double rope?

The wrong technique can lead to fatal consequences. One can safely and easily use the ATC device for abseiling with a double rope by following these simple steps: Set up the anchor. Using both ends of the rope, make a small bend on each of the rope ends by pinching it.